BURRO SHIRT IN BROWN HAT COTTON DIAMONDBONE

Traditional men's dress shirts are constructed with a double-thickness yoke across the shoulders, which joins the back and front panels, trapping the seam inlays inside. This sewing operation is quite complicated and involves rolling up all the shirt panels inside the yoke until it is sewn and pulled inside-out. A machinist's term for this rolled-up, inside-out shirt is a burrito. The Burro Shirt is cut without side seams, and the right and left panels are joined at the back with a double-thickness vertical panel, functioning as an oversized, rotated, traditional yoke. The fabric is cut sideways and sewn in the USA with 100% cotton thread. Shirts are fastened with custom-made black 'jigger' buttons, flat two-hole buttons designed to support a more decorative button from behind a soft fabric.

Cotton Diamondbone is a herringbone fabric woven with alternating columns of left- and right-hand twills, forming a repeated V pattern which looks a little like a fish skeleton. Cotton Diamondbone is a new design based on this, but changing vertically as well as horizontally to create repeated shapes. The warp and weft yarns are ecru cotton, and slightly lower tension in weaving creates a soft, thick fabric that is particularly comfortable against the skin.

The seasonal hadal dye for Autumn/Winter 2026 is Brown Hat. The hadal dye idea came from thinking about color choice back to front: rather than choosing a color from a Pantone book and asking a dye house to match it, I describe a color (for example, "the deepest possible blue") and then see what comes out. Brown Hat is an extension of this. The Opera Hat is dyed with the milliner's 100% brown dye, with no adjustments to red or green. I wanted an archetypal brown hat, something like that worn by Michiel Sweerts' Man Holding a Jug, painted in 1660, rather than imposing my own design decisions onto it. When the finished hat came back, I took it to my garment dyer, who matched it to a cotton reactive dye, which gives shirts and jeans the same deep brown.