HOODED DRAFTING COAT IN RED WOOL CARPET TWILL

Draft lines are the plotted or penciled lines used in pattern making. A pattern maker starts with these general lines for the center front, center back, waistline, shoulder point, etc, then creates the shapes of the pattern between these fixed lines, incorporating the volume or function of the panels within the bounds of the garment type and the wearer's body shape. The Draft Line Hooded Coat is generously cut with upside-down raglan sleeves and a three-panel hood. The hood is attached normally to the neck hole at the front, but at the back the draft lines marking the high shoulder points are extended up and down to create a single panel which runs up the back from the hem, up the back neck and over the top of the head, ending at the front of the hood.

The fabric is cut with the roll running sideways, and sewn in the USA with 100% cotton thread. The coat is fastened with custom-made black oversized 'jigger' buttons, flat two-hole buttons designed to support a more decorative button from behind a soft fabric.

The wool carpet twill fabric is custom woven in the USA on a cotton canvas warp, with high slub woolen weft yarn, coarsely spun for flat-weave carpets. Wool for flooring has to be particularly hard-wearing, but by weaving over a cotton warp the rougher wool is pushed to the outside of the garment, with a smooth cotton reverse.