ISOSCELES SHIRT IN DRAB WELD WOOL STRIPE COTTON TATTERSALL

The Isosceles Shirt is cut as a T-shape, with horizontal shoulders and very wide sleeves. Once the sleeves are fastened to the body, the machinist sews a straight line from the top of the shoulder to the cuff, angling the shoulder and tapering the sleeve. The resulting flap is pressed flat and sewn down along the edges, creating an isosceles triangle with its apex at the neck and its base at the cuff. Large pockets are sewn at the front, and the sleeves are finished without openings, so that this style works well as a lightweight jacket. The fabric is cut sideways and sewn in the USA with 100% cotton thread. Galloons are fastened with custom-made oversized black 'jigger' buttons, flat two-hole buttons designed to support a more decorative button from behind a soft fabric.

Tattersall cloths are named for Tattersall's horse auction, founded in 1766 at Newmarket, England. The check pattern of yellows, greens, and blues over a cream ground was originally used for horse blankets, but became a popular fabric for waistcoats, and later for shirts. They are often made from a mix of wool and cotton. The Wool Stripe Cotton Tattersall is an original interpretation of a classic tattersall: the ground is an ecru all-cotton herringbone, with alternating weft stripes of blue, green, and yellow coarsely spun wool. When the fabric is rotated 90° in cross-cutting, the subtle herringbone becomes horizontal, and the bolder wool stripes run vertically.

Dyer's weld, Reseda luteola, is native to Europe and Western Asia, and has been used as a source of yellow dyes since at least the 1st Century BCE. The Ancient Romans used it extensively, especially for festival clothing and the robes of the priestesses of Vesta, the goddess of the hearth, whose flame the yellow fabric represented. Depending on the dyeing process, weld can produce shades from drab mustard to bright lemon.