SHIRTMAKER'S JEANS JACKET IN BROWN HAT 16OZ SELVAGE DENIM

A Tender jeans jacket seen through the eyes of a Jermyn Street shirtmaker. The shoulders are connected at a lined yoke, the two-piece collar is shaped, and there is a generous breast pocket. The selvage center back seam is pressed open, and the upside-down sleeve seams open into split cuffs. Sewn in the UK with 100% cotton thread and fastened with riveted jeans fly buttons.

Tender’s 16oz blue line selvage denim is custom woven in Japan. Ring-spun unbleached American cotton is rope-dyed with 25 dips of pure indigo for an exceptionally dark blue-black fabric which fades beautifully with wear. The yarn is heavily starched during the weaving process, so it arrives quite stiff and will soften considerably as it ages. Because it has not been pre-skewed, the yarn unwinds with washing, causing the garment to twist and shape to the body. Rinsed and dyed denim has been fully shrunk. 

The seasonal hadal dye for Autumn/Winter 2026 is Brown Hat. The hadal dye idea came from thinking about color choice back to front: rather than choosing a color from a Pantone book and asking a dye house to match it, I describe a color (for example, "the deepest possible blue") and then see what comes out. Brown Hat is an extension of this. The Opera Hat is dyed with the milliner's 100% brown dye, with no adjustments to red or green. I wanted an archetypal brown hat, something like that worn by Michiel Sweerts' Man Holding a Jug, painted in 1660, rather than imposing my own design decisions onto it. When the finished hat came back, I took it to my garment dyer, who matched it to a cotton reactive dye, which gives shirts and jeans the same deep brown.